Pope Leo XIV’s Return to Papal Elegance Sparks Debate on Tradition
Pope Leo XIV’s embrace of ornate papal fashion is turning heads and prompting questions about whether his style signals a broader return to Vatican tradition.
When Leo made his first appearance on the balcony of St. Peter’s Basilica following his May 8 election, the visual contrast with his predecessor was stark: out was Pope Francis’ austere white cassock; in was the regal red satin mozzetta, embroidered stola, and golden accessories — all reminiscent of popes from a bygone era.
Since then, the new pope’s wardrobe has only grown more elaborate. Cufflinks, lace-trimmed garments, and traditional white trousers — long absent from papal appearances — are back. The changes have delighted liturgical fashion enthusiasts and raised expectations among traditionalist Catholics, many of whom hope Leo’s style foreshadows a shift in Church direction.
“This is a return to form,” said Rev. John Wauck, a professor of Church communications in Rome. “The clothing symbolizes reverence for tradition — a value that resonates with many conservative Catholics.”
Pope Francis’ tenure was marked by simplicity, symbolized by his rejection of elaborate attire and formalities. That approach, however, frustrated many traditionalists, especially his restrictions on the Latin Mass — a liturgical rite cherished for its solemnity and centuries-old roots.
Now, with Leo often singing prayers in Latin and accepting traditional gestures like the kissing of his ring — something Francis discouraged — speculation is growing that more reforms could be revisited.
“U.S. conservatives, in particular, are enthusiastic,” said theologian Massimo Faggioli of Villanova University, where Leo studied. “They see Pope Francis as possibly just a pause in the longer arc of papal tradition.”
At his May 18 inaugural Mass, Leo further demonstrated his break from Francis’ minimalist approach. He wore the amitto, alb, and cingulum — formal garments layered with symbolic meaning — and revealed cufflinks beneath his vestments as he sprinkled holy water.
Some subtle changes, like his shift from black pants to the traditional white, may have gone unnoticed without photographers’ close-up lenses. But for Vatican insiders and Rome’s elite liturgical tailors, every detail is a signal.
“I think what we see with Pope Leo is a willingness to embrace the past as a treasure, not a burden,” Wauck said.
Still, it remains unclear whether Leo’s traditionalism will extend to policy. He has not yet signaled whether he plans to reverse Francis’ limitations on the Latin Mass or take other doctrinal steps.
And some clergy are unfazed by the buzz. “For Pope Francis, simplicity was the message,” said Rev. Castro Prudencio. “Pope Leo has taken up the style of Benedict and many others before. That’s the rhythm of the Church.”
Another question looms: will Leo move into the papal apartments in the Apostolic Palace — long vacant during Francis’ papacy — or follow Francis’ lead by remaining at the Santa Marta guesthouse?
As the world watches his every move and every stitch, Pope Leo XIV’s pontificate is already setting a very different tone — one steeped in visual tradition and Vatican pageantry. Whether that symbolism will translate into policy remains to be seen.
